First Ascent: J. Mills, Torran Elson, Tim Elson - Sep 06
Nature of Route: A fantastic direct line up the East Face finishing on a beautifull white pillar.
Location: The East face is the face visible from Thompson creek about 10 minutes down Hwy 11 from the Crossing.
Approach: Head up the right side of Thompson Creek all the way until below the face, about 3 hours.
Climb: From just before the Cline/Lion col scramble up a few hundred meters to the large scree ledge splitting the E. Face. Traverse this ledge left a few hundred meters and past all major gully features to two obvious corners that are the most obvious breaks in the lower black cliff band. Make sure you hurry under the gullies as they are occasional rockfall chutes. Scramble up about 20 ft of stacked scree to the base of the corners.
P1 (5.6, 45m) - Climb the left hand, right facing corner which is the worst quality rock on the route, make sure the belayer is well out of the way. About half way up the corner step left to easier ground and up to a belay. Although the rock is crap the gear is decent.
P2 (5.5, 50+m) - Up the gully on the left to the top of the black band.
Traverse 40m right to an easy looking wide crack system.
P3 (5.7, 45m) - Up the wide crack for about 8m until it gets really loose then step left onto a nice steep crack which leads into an excellent right facing corner. Belay on the scree ledge above.
Traverse left 40m until below a short overhand which leads into a right facing corner.
P4 (5.9, 60m) - Up the short overhang (a knifeblade is handy here) to easier ground. Head up and right into crack systems which take you to another scree ledge belay.
P5-7 (5.5, 120m) - Follow the easiest line up for three pitches aiming for the huge right facing corner that splits the upper buttress.
P8 (5.8, 45m) - Climb a sweet crack just left of a left facing corner up into a chimney and right facing corner, this is the huge right facing corner visible from the bottom of the route. Belay near some loose blocks about 5m above the chimney.
P9 (5.9+, 40m) - Continue straight up the corner on steep ground with big holds on good rock. Turn the small overhang on the right and belay on the good ledge above. Excellent climbing.
P10 (5.6, 30m) - Climb up to a perch on the arete of the buttress.
Traverse down and left across the ledge about 20m to a cool pinnacle on the south face below a crack/corner.
P11 (5.10, 35m) - The hardest pitch on the route and somewhat loose in places. Straight up into the left facing corner which is followed for about 15 meters until it gets too difficult. From here make a hard traverse left to easier ground. Belay on a huge ledge above.
Traverse the ledge to its left end.
P12 (5.9, 30m) - One of the most exposed pitches you will ever climb. Traverse left over the void on great rock until able to climb the corner above to the top.
Scramble easily to the summit.
Descent: The normal route or N. Ridge.
Route line from below.
Route line of upper part where route finishes on S. Face.
J Mills on last pitch.
Tim on pitch 4.