First Ascent: J. Mills(solo) - Nov 23 '05
Nature of Route: A highly reccomended alpine route in the front ranges near Nordegg. Best winter alpine route in the David Thompson Corridor. Doesn't always form.
Location:The climb is visible from the highway SouthWest of Nordegg. It is on a very wide horizontally banded peak NorthWest of the highway. The route takes the coulior in the middle of the NE face. Located at GR: 356953 on 83 C/8 - Nordegg
Approach: Park at Allstones Creek Trailhead (signed) 31.5km from Nordegg OR 59.3km from the Crossing.
Follow the huge trail to the lake then bushwack to the base of the route, about 3 hours, take a map. I bivied at the base with just a lighter for bivi gear. It was a very lonely fire but it did the trick. Could be done in a day but the approach would be tricky in the dark.
Climb: Head straight up the obvious coulior over a number of easy ice steps and avalanche prone snow slopes to a final ptich(50m?) up a fantastic mixed corner to the ridge top. This final pitch looked like it would take lots of good cams, especially big ones(#4). Very nice climbing.
Descent: There are probably a few ways down but this is how I went: From the ridge top turn left and continue on to a small summit. Turn right and head down to a col and a snowslope leading to the headwaters of Allstones creek. (Check the map, this is NOT the same valley that Allstones trail is in) Follow the creek back to the highway, about 3 or 4 hours.